Gay traveler arriving in Guatemala may certeinly feel the paradox and the contrast of our country. The so called gay life has has emerged from its closets and the scene has evolved fastly in the last years. Thousands of Guatemalans meanwhile still lead a miserable existence and many of them still lead a miserable existence hiding theirs sexual preferences to survive in this conservatorian Catholic, machista and very violent society. Most of the organized gay life in Guatemala takes place around Guatemala City, that's means the capital itself a sprawling, polluted metropolis of over 3 million people.

On the town

One of the gay spotlights in towm is Genetic. This recently remodelled discotheque is full of it capacity on Saturdays specially at night. We have there two dance floors as well as a lovely rooftop patio and even a "dark room."  Outside of the disco, parked cars lined the streets for blocks. Almost everyone inside was under 40, and nobody in the bar seemed either worried or oppressed.

But leaving the bar, the bone-chilling wind of the Guatemalan night quickly reminds one of the violence of Guatemalan culture and its hostility toward men and women who do not live up to the cultural stereotypes of how they are "supposed to be." Several transvestites and gay men have been killed in recent years.

Guatemala, as most of Central American countries in the region representants still a serious problem for gay and lesbian people. Only about 10% of the population here even goes to the bars or Discos. Most of  the gay people are completely in the closet, afraid of being discovered because of theirs sexuals preferences.

Public cruising is still a popular and even if dangerous way for gay Guatemalans to hook up. In the area sorrounding the Cathedral it is easy to meet men, but it is not easy to know if it is safe or not to go with them. These young men mostly are inmigrants from Honduras, Nicaragua and El Salvador and often desperately in need in need of cash so virtually they are only Gays for pay.

Shopping mall centers areas such Tikal Futura, Miraflores and Proceres are also well known for late afternoon cruising.

Zone 1, close to the main square, is also the location of Karma Disco, El Encuentro Bar, and Cyber Pl@ce (A gayfriendly cyber cafe).

Countryside cruising

Guatemala offers some incredible opportunities, most of them outside of the capital. Town of Panajachel, nestled on shores of Lake Atitlán, one of the most beautiful inland lakes of the world. During the four hour journey, the road from Guatemala City winds through scenic mountains and ancient Mayan villages turned into small cities with their colorful open markets. It then dips precipitously and one sees breathtaking views of the lake while descending into the beachside town.

The town became popular with U.S. and European hippies in the 70's, then emptied out somewhat during the long Guatemalan civil war. It has again regained its popularity, but in a more bourgeois fashion. Hotels and restaurants are everywhere, and in every price range, as are the indigenous vendors of colorful hand woven shirts and tapestries. Douglas and I paid $12 for a double room with private bath, and $7 for a spaghetti dinner for two in an Italian restaurant that seemed deliciously out of place in Panachatel.

There are no gay venues as such in Panajachel, but a European atmosphere makes the whole place relatively gay friendly. There are so many gays working in the tourist industry here.

Driving to the East around Atitlán, the road is passable for about 15 miles and there are two indigenous towns nestled into the steep slopes that drop towards the lake. Archaeological excavations in the area have uncovered evidence of lakeside communities dating back to 1000 B.C. And things don't seem to have changed that much. Mayan boys play soccer in thick kilt-like skirts and still speak the indigenous dialect of this region. Water is drawn from wells, and much of the food supply comes from the fish that abound in the lake.

Sights seen and unseen

The colonial city of Antigua, the first capital of Central America, dates back to the 16th century. It is less than an hour from Guatemala city. Cobblestone streets form a grid that becomes a town at the base of volcanic peaks. Antigua is a haven for U.S. and European students who come to study Spanish. There are a dozen language schools which offer a room and board with a local family and 7 hours a day of Spanish all for around $200 per week. Guatemalan gays are optimistic about the future, and incredibly warm and friendly toward visitors, a pleasant seasoning for anyone's Guatemalan vacation.

Where to stay

There are no gay hotels, as such, in Guatemala City, but accommodations are easy to come by. In Zone 1 there are dozens of hotels in the cheap and moderate price range. For $20 a night you can easily get a clean room with private bath, and breakfast. If you go to Zone 10, the "zona viva," high priced chain hotels abound.